Leaving Yellowstone

Our last day in Yellowstone was sad because there would be no more adventures in the park. We had to repeat a grueling 2000+ mile cross-country drive that we had done back in May. It was celebrated because we weren't going to see another Old Faithful Inn plate, and we were heading back to Orleans, VT to visit my parents and plan our Southeast Asia itinerary.

We left the park early in the morning, wondering what animals would give us our sendoff. As discussed in previous posts, we were hoping the employee-last-day-bear-sighting would hold true. We traveled from Old Faithful to the east entrance of the park with the usual suspects, bison road jams, coyotes crossings, Lake Yellowstone sunrise, and tourist buses. Along Lake Yellowstone, we encountered a bald eagle.

We thought the regal send off was fantastic, and we were content leaving the park. Then, the unthinkable happened. Less than five miles from the east entrance, we spotted a grizzly bear sow with three yearlings!

The bears foraged in an open field for more than fifteen minutes. We were fortunate enough to be watching this with a member of the Cody, Wyoming bear management team. He had been monitoring the sow and cubs all summer. Since July, the bears had been frequenting the valley. It was amazing that the sow had kept all three cubs in good health. The yearlings would hibernate one more winter with their mother before being kicked out of the den. As the mother led the three yearlings into the timber, one straggled behind to forage for that last bug and tend to a back itch.

The employee-last-day-bear-sighting held true and couldn't have been more spectacular. We followed highway 14 through Wyoming attempting to get to Rapid City, SD. Highway 14 provided excellent Wyoming entertainment. At one point, the two-lane road weaves through a tight canyon. In the canyon, we encountered the largest cattle crossing I have ever witnessed (and remember, I'm from Vermont, the dairy capital). Cowboys/girls were leading more than 1,000 cows from a field on the ridges of the canyon to a field within the canyon. Our VW golf weaved around hundreds of cattle for thirty minutes. When we arrived to the last cowboys (10 of them), Laura asked, “Do you do this everyday?”. “Everyday!” was the reply. What a task! Here's a photo of the first group of cattle.

As we climbed out of the canyon, a heli-logging operation became our next stop. A helicopter transported timber from one side of the canyon to the other.

Chainsaws ripped through lodgepole pines on one side of the canyon, the helicopter picked them up, and the trunks were piled on the other side of the canyon.

How is heli-logging cost effective?

We arrived in Rapid City, SD our first night and planned to visit Mount Rushmore the following day. Unfortunately, weather did not cooperate. The following day was heavily overcast and rained. Mount Rushmore was not viewable; tourists were being turned back. With the bad news, we decided to continue east. A long, boring ride across South Dakota was highlighted by a number of Wall Drug billboards.

Five-cent coffee, free ice water, free donut and coffee for veterans, free bumper sticker, homemade donuts, western ware, native american relics, jackalopes, etc. How can you NOT stop?

Laura and I were overtaken by the Wall, SD store (Bye, bye Walmart, Hello Wall Drug!). The leather bags, western hats, western library, western history on the walls, etc. were overwhelming.

After the spanish woman was complemented by locals for her western look, we stopped at the Wall drug diner. Laura got 5-cent coffee; I got free ice water. It was all complemented by a fantastic batch of homemade donuts!

For an unique, interesting success story, read Wall Drug's history.

We stayed in Chamberlain, SD that night. We had an uneventful interstate drive to Cleveland, OH on day three. On day four, we drove from Cleveland, OH to Orleans, VT. We happily arrived in Orleans at half past midnight just in time for my birthday the following day.

The trip statistics for this cross-country trip:

Total miles: 2,609
Total gas cost: $215.24
Total gas gallons: 78.594
Average miles per gallon: 33.2
Average price per gallon: $2.74
Most expensive gas: $2.899 (Oneonta, NY)
Total tolls cost: $18.15 ($10.95 to Ohio, $6.70 to Illinois, $0.50 to Indiana)

We are now planning our itinerary for Southeast Asia. Monsoon season is over and it's time to explore! New posts will describe our future plans.

The Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center

Our last full day in Yellowstone, we decided to visit the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone, Montana. The center is an educational park teaching the public about wild bears and wolves. Upon entering the center, the exhibit focuses primarily on bears. There is information on where bears live, the differences between black and brown bears, how bears feed, how bears interact with humans, and how a bear can eventually become a "nuisance bear" and be killed. A number of newspaper articles in the exhibit show bears and wolves in current event stories.

Outside of the exhibit building, there are two caged sections. On one side, the center has 9 bears that are rotated out to a 1-acre plot viewable by the public. Bears are sometimes let out individually or sometimes in tandem. There are only certain bear combinations that get along so great lengths have to be taken to decide who can go with who. Food is hidden throughout the 1-acre piece of land, so the bears are forced to use their natural abilities to sniff out the food. The bears typically are out for 45 to 90 minutes. During our visit, Kobuk and Nakina were foraging in the habitat.

Each bear has its own unique, interesting story. Some have become "nuisance bears" meaning they had learned to find food in human territory and were having too many dangerous encounters with humans. Nuisance bears usually are relocated a number of times and if they continue, they are killed. Some lost their mothers when they were cubs. Cubs typically require their mother for 2 years to learn to survive in the wild so losing their mother is a death sentence. Each bear has a billboard describing their story.

We enjoyed watching the bears so much, we waited for another couple to come up. Stoke and Revel came out and walked around the habitat restlessly. Stoke, in particular, was bathing in the bath and prowling around throughout the habitat for food. According to one of the center's employees, Stoke is one of the best combination bears.

Stoke can go out with most any of the habitat's bears except for 101.

101 is a special case. 101 had been a wild bear for 20 years and has spent the last 5 years at the center. 101 had become a nuisance bear and despite numerous relocations, the bear was scheduled to be killed. Instead, the center took 101 in. 101 cannot be in the habitat with any other bear and typically is not out when the public is there. The bear has her wild tendencies to protect her territory and is stressed by the public viewing. Learn about all of the bears at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center website.

On the other side of the park, there is three-quarters of an acre for the Gallatin wolf pack. The pack contains 4 wolves that were all brought up in captivity. None of the wolves have the skills to survive in the wild.

In Yellowstone's Hayden valley, we had seen wild wolves via spotting scopes. The center gave us the unique opportunity to watch these animals up close. They spent most of their time sleeping but occasionally got up for a drink of water.

The latest addition to the center is the "Living with Bears" presentation. The presentation was highlighted by Jewel, a Karelian Bear Dog who once worked for the Wind River Bear Institute. Jewel was being used as an aversive conditioning tool (like rubber bullets, yelling, etc.) against nuisance bears. Karelian bear dogs have a unique ability to harrass bears without getting themselves hurt by the bear. They have amazing intuition in knowing when to retreat and when to attack. In Montana, when a bear has become a nuisance bear, officials will call in the Wind River Bear Institute's trained dogs to help teach the bear that the human developed territory isn't safe to enter. Nuisance bears are typically collared so officials can track them. Then, as these bears re-enter human developed areas, they use leashed karelian bear dogs to scare and corner the bear. This is done repeatedly until the bear stops entering human areas or must be put down. The karelian bear dog method has been proven to work and saved numerous wild bear lives. Karelian bear dogs are difficult pets so Jewel was a unique opportunity to work for the center. Jewel enjoys human interaction. She also had some issues with food allergies and her mother which forced her to retire from her original job.

The center was educational and provided an opportunity to safely monitor these sometimes massive and always beautiful animals up close.


Is the center a good idea? Should bears be taken from the wild when death is inevitable and kept captive? Would you accept life in prison or prefer death? Answer on the poll on this blog. For more pictures from the center, click here.

Wildlife of Yellowstone

After visiting Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, Laura and I realized we had a passion for photographing wildlife. I wondered if it was just because the Serengeti was such an amazing place and once you lose the opportunity to photograph lions, leopards, etc., would you want to photograph anything else? My question was quickly answered when I realized the number of wildlife photos we were taking in Yellowstone National Park. We started off photographing every bison that we saw along the roadside. We soon realized that elk and bison in Yellowstone are like giraffe and zebra in the Serengeti. They are everywhere and one just starts to ignore them. There were times when they didn’t let you ignore them.

One day leaving the Old Faithful Inn to go to our dorm room, we ran into a Bull Elk with his harem.

They were just yards away and he decided it was time to round up all of his straggling females. He pranced around grunting at each straggler and pushing each female back into the pack. He got close enough a few times that I thought he was going to add a new female and round up Laura. I didn’t want to have to go toe-to-toe with this Bull.

Grazing elk seem to love the lush grass of Mammoth Hot Springs. At times, there would be 5 or 6 bull elk with their harems within view. These bulls were quite busy, having to aggressively protect their harems from the other bulls and patriotically pose for new park visitors.

Some bulls weren’t up to the task as they had too much to drink the night before.

Bison herds were a common site throughout the park. Many of the herds make their way towards the upper geyser basin for the winter months. The hot springs and geysers clear grazing lands to allow them to find food.

We found a couple bulls dueling for territory on one of our drives.

Mule deer and white-tailed deer frequent the upper geyser basin also. My father hunts white-tailed deer each year in the New England forests. For many years now, he’s seen numerous white tails without being able to identify if the deer has a rack or not (Vermont only allows hunters to kill male deer unless a special doe license is purchased). I’ve always had difficulty picturing what he was seeing until this white-tail in Teton National Park was kind enough to show me.

Many visitors to the park are especially interested in seeing one of the great predators, the wolf, the black or grizzly bear, the lynx, or the mountain lion. Many are interested in the elusive bull moose, who keeps well hidden. We spent much of our time looking for bears. Our first choice for viewing bears was Lamar valley in the northeastern section of the park. The valley contains the Lamar river and is an extremely wide and long valley providing lots of viewing area. The valley contains a roadway through much of it making it easily accessible. Lamar valley is also where wolves were first successfully introduced back into Yellowstone in 1995.

We visited Lamar valley two times, on our first free day and on one of our last free days. During the first visit, we initially traveled through the valley by car and came upon a beautiful female moose with her calf attempting to cross the road. She showed her nervousness towards us before making a successful road crossing.

We decided for more up-close wildlife viewing away from the road, we would hike along the Lamar river into the Yellowstone backcountry. During our hike, we were able to watch two pronghorns, the fastest land mammal in the world besides a cheetah, chase each other in the valley. Talk about spinning up some dust.

Badger holes were everywhere, and we finally scared a foraging badger into his hole. He was curious enough to keep an eye on the newcomers.

Most enjoyable to view were the patrolling coyotes. We saw two of them monitoring the ground as they travelled through the valley. An occasional curious pause or pounce would make us wonder what they had seen.

As we left the valley the first time, we were dissappointed in not seeing any wolves and only a single grizzly via a spotting scope from more than a mile away. We decided a second visit would be necessary and went back early in the morning about a month later.This time cars were lined up on the side of the road to watch the Lamar valley wolf pack. They were deep in the valley along the tree line and therefore, we needed to borrow spotting scopes to watch them. They played, rested, and cleaned each other. A truly unique experience that we were able to share with one of Yellowstone’s wolf experts. He was describing to all the tourists how the wolf pack interacts with other wildlife, other wolfpacks, and within itself. Eventually, four yearlings decided to practice their hunting skills on a limping adult bison. The bison was able to return to its herd despite the annoying wolf nips, and it made for exciting viewing. The wolf expert told us if the pack was serious about taking the bison down, the adults would be active in the hunt.

We were also told that the Druid Peak wolfpack was further into the valley. We investigated this information and found the 18-strong pack minus one resting in the valley. They were inactive for most of the time, except when another wolf or coyote made his howling presence known. Once the Druid pack heard this, they all howled in unison notifying the intruder what he stood against. The sound and view of the howl of an entire wolfpack was impressive!

During both Lamar valley visits, we did see grizzlies via a spotting scope but way too far to be able to capture with our camera. After numerous questions at the ranger station, we decided that Pelican valley was the place where we would find our elusive bear.

We went to Pelican valley two times during our stay in Yellowstone. Both times, we were lucky enough to see the great gray owl. The first time, a great gray owl couple was kind enough to let us photograph them (see earlier post) from about 20 feet away. Here’s a picture of the male great grey owl.

During the second visit, we initially got fleeting glimpses of his large soaring body as he escaped from us. Then, as we exited the valley disappointed that we had not found him, we spotted him perched on a tree limb 10 feet from us. He seemed to be content to let us walk by until our stares met his. That was his time to say goodbye and we saw him soar away for the last time.

Our visits to Pelican valley gave us beautiful scenery and sounds of Yellowstone.Bison grunted, coyotes howled, and wind whistled through the lodgepoles. Gray jays weaved through the lodgepole pines and took time to stop and view the curious visitors.

In the end, the bears only left us signs, scat, claw marks, diggings, and tracks.

They saw us but we never saw them.

Our hike to photograph osprey falls for the waterfall post gave us a unique opportunity to see the recovering Yellowstone beaver population. This guy surprised us in a small pond right next to the roadside near Bunsen Peak.

Our road drives gave us a number of wildlife opportunities. On our way to Jackson Hole, a traffic jam was caused by the Yellowstone paparazzi. We joined the crowd photographing a moose family.

The bull moose was attentive to the attention.

One day returning from West Yellowstone, we found this bald eagle couple enjoying a quiet moment in the fresh Yellowstone air.

On a trip to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, this coyote was causing unnecessary nervousness to the local elk.

He didn’t care too much for the paparazzi analyzing his every move.

The lazy bull elk was on the opposite side of the road , too exhausted to protect his harem from the badgering coyote.

Finally, at the Old Faithful Inn, we overheard the Yellowstone employee buzz. Employees who had not seen a bear during their employment would see one the day they left the park. Heck, after all these hikes, why not give it a try? Laura and I took our Polish friend, Piotr, to Bozeman on his last day in the park. As we travelled north towards Mammoth, we encountered a parked park ranger with 4 tourist cars parked next to him. This had to be it… our bear is here!

We stopped and exited our car. A tourist said a grizzly was in the woods just on the other side of the road and was moving this way. The ranger eventually drove 100 feet down the road and immediately returned. “The bear is coming this way. Please get next to your vehicle and do NOT walk that way.”As we all scanned the small pines, we finally saw a 250-pound grizzly come through the trees.

He caused a roar of tourist “oohs and aahs” as he crossed the road within 20 feet of the cars.

He passed through the field right next to the car pulloff, stopping only to sniff the air and take a curious glance at the Yellowstone paparazzi.

His heavy body whisked through the thick yellow grass towards a small lake and eventually into the timber.

We had finally seen a grizzly bear in Yellowstone. We could continue the employee buzz about employees’ last days.

See more pictures of the bear or all the other wildlife here.

Waterfalls of Yellowstone

With so many water drainages throughout Yellowstone, there are uncountable numbers of waterfalls in Yellowstone. Each one has unique features to establish its own beauty. I couldn’t resist the temptation to photograph as many as I ran across so here’s my opportunity to share those photos. Most of these were taken just off the roadside so one can imagine how much more is actually out in the backcountry of the park.

Lower Yellowstone Falls is located in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. It’s made an appearance on a previous blog and is probably the most visited waterfall in the park. There are a number of viewpoints for this waterfall thoughout the canyon, from up close to afar. The water drops approximately 300 feet and the fall probably contains the most gallons of water flowing over it.

Upper Yellowstone Falls is located a few hundred yards up river from Lower Yellowstone Falls. It has a much smaller drop, 100 feet, and has less viewpoints than the Lower Falls. Both are located along the Yellowstone River in the Canyon Village area.

Up the road from Canyon Village to Tower Junction, one can find Tower Falls. This is probably the second-most visited waterfall in the park (an entire junction has been named after it). The viewpoint where the picture was taken is just off the road about one-quarter mile. Ten years ago, a paved path took visitors close to the base of the falls. That path has stability issues now, and the closest one can get is the viewpoint.

From the road connecting Tower Junction to Mammoth Hot Springs, one will find a half-mile path to Wraith Falls. Wraith Falls is on Lupine Creek and certainly isn’t your classic waterfall. It is more like a waterslide than a waterfall. Too bad it would be a rough landing!

Right next door to Wraith Falls is Undine Falls on Lava Creek. Undine Falls is a combination of three waterfalls in one. The viewpoint is excellent as it allows one to see up the small canyon it has created.

Next to Mammoth Hot Springs is Bunsen Peak, a small peak surrounded by valleys that provides incredible views of the Gallatin mountain range. One of my favorite hikes in the park is to summit Bunsen Peak and then drop down into a canyon on the other side of the peak. Inside that canyon is Osprey Falls, the most beautiful falls in the park in my humble opinion. The hike to Osprey Falls is 4 miles from the trailhead. As one hikes into the canyon, one can hear the falls but cannot see them until arriving right in front of them, a fantastic surprise. Unfortunately, the picture doesn’t do it justice.

Between Norris junction and Madison junction is Gibbon Falls along the Gibbon River. This waterfall was the first one that Laura and I encountered when we entered the park from the North entrance and travelled to Old Faithful. The river has created an impressive canyon making for a fun and scenic drive. Gibbon Falls has a couple of viewpoints from the roadside.

Just south of Madison junction is firehole canyon. The firehole river has created an incredibly steep canyon that has a thin one-way road winding through it. Besides a swimming hole stop, the most popular stop along the 2-mile drive is firehole falls.

The upper geyser basin area, where old faithful is located, has a number of short hikes surrounding it. The 200-foot fairy falls is a popular destination for upper geyser basin visitors. The short 3-mile hike (of which 1 mile is bike accessible) is a small price to pay for this aptly-named waterfall.

A mile from the biscuit basin area is mystic falls. Mystic falls is often overshadowed by the higher Fairy Falls but is a worthy adversary in terms of beauty.

Finally, exiting the park towards Grand Teton National Park, visitors can encounter Lewis Falls along the Lewis river. This waterfall is located just south of Lewis Lake, presumably named after Meriwether Lewis of the Lewis and Clark expedition.

Those are the waterfalls I was able to catch during our Yellowstone stay. Let me know which one you liked the best in the poll on this blog.